Mt-Makalu Expedition

WISDOM OF CLIMBING MOUNTAINS

Mt. Makalu is the world’s 5th highest mountain at the elevation of 8,463 meters (27,820ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himal 19 km north-east between Everest and Kanchenjunga on the Nepal-Tibet border.


 Duration

45 Days

 Grade

Challenging

 Route

Hiking/ Trekkking

 Accommodation

Hotel, Lodge, Camp

 Max Altitude

8,463m

 Best Season

Spring-Autumn


Mt. Makalu is the world’s 5th highest mountain at the elevation of 8,463 meters (27,820ft). It is located in the MahalangurHimal 19 km north-east between Everest and Kanchenjunga on the Nepal-Tibet border. It is an isolated peak, looks like a perfect pyramid with sharp ridges on four sides and it makes the mountain more beautiful. It is considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world for climbing expedition. We begin Mount Makalu Climbing expedition with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (45 min). You will enjoy the incredible views and mountain scenery from the flight. Upon arrival at Tumlingtar airport, we begin our walk above the ARUN River valley past Sherpa settlements and forests enjoying views of Mount Chamlang Himalaya in the distance until we step on the base of the West Face at 5,800m. From the base of the West Face, we gently climb to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100m to the right part of the ice-fall.

The second section of the route stretches from the plateau above the icefall along 35 to 45-degree elevation’s rock up to 6,500m high. The next higher section is an ice-rock steep wall with 50 to 55 degrees inclination & extends up to 7,400 meters in elevation. The final section begins from 70 to 75-degree elevation’s rock pillar, leading to the west ridge at 8,000m. Though there are many routes on the mountain but we choose less-trodden, isolated route which leads to the beautiful Barun valley. As we reach nearer to Makalu Base Camp at 4,800m, here we will find the terrain rocky with loose scree. At the base camp, we halt for two nights to acclimatize and make a side excursion around beautiful high grazing areas at the top of the Barun Glacier. From the base camp, we enjoy spectacular views of Mount Everest (8,850m), Mount Lhotse (8,516m), Mount Makalu (8,463m), Mount Chamlang (7,319m) and Mount Baruntse (7,220m). After base camp, we walk up for almost seven hours over the moraine and boulder fields of the Barun Glacier until we reach Advanced Base Camp at 5,700m (ABC). Here we spend most of our time. From Advanced Base Camp we ascend a steep ice-snow wall with fixed lines to reach Camp I. At Camp I, we spend 2 nights to make an acclimatization trip across the easy glacier to Camp II, 6,600m which is a small, flat sheltered area nearby some ice walls. Beyond Camp II, the climb is a technical part with open snow slope, which can be deep and prone to avalanches. There is also one more mixed section of rock and blue ice which leads up to the Makalu La at 7,450m. Before we reach Camp III at 7,400m, we have to walk 200 meters on flat terrain covered with ice. From Camp III, it takes us only 3 hours to reach Camp IV at 7,600m and this is the last spot for fixing a camp below the summit. On summit day, we climb over moderate glacial slopes up to the base of the French Couloir, a shallow 300m high gully of mixed rock bands and snow that leads to the summit. From the summit, we truly enjoy the panoramic view starting from Mount Kanchenjunga in the east to uncountable peaks including Mount Shishapangma of Tibet in the west.

Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu and Transfer to the Hotel

Day 2: Official formalities

Day 3: Fly to Tumlingtar and Drive to Num

Day 4: Commence trek to Sheduwa

Day 5: Trek to TashiGaun

Day 6: Rest day and Acclimatization

Day 7: Trek to Khongma

Day 8: Trek to Dobato

Day 9: Trek to YangleKharka

Day 10: Trek to Makalu Base Camp

Day 11-14:Ceremony and Training at Base Camp

Day 15 - 35: Climbing Period of Makalu

Day 36: Cleaning up Base Camp

Day 37: Trek Back to lower Base Camp

Day 38: Trek Back to YangleKharka

Day 39: Trek Back to Khongma

Day 40: Trek Back to Seduwa

Day 41: Trek Back to Num

Day 42: Trek Back to Khadbari

Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu

Day 44: Final Departure


  • International & Domestic Airport pick up and drop off
  • 4-nights Hotel in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast plan
  • A welcome dinner with Office Staff in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu
  • Domestic flight: Kathmandu – Tumlingtar – Kathmandu with airport tax
  • Land and Air domestic transportation and cargo for our overall expeditions
  • Necessary permit fees to climb Makalu
  • Summit route fixing charge
  • Garbage Management and Garbage disposal fee
  • Government Liaison officer with his daily wages, equipment, food, insurance
  • Freshly cooked meals (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner): Continental, Nepali, Indian and Chinese with hot drinks, Tea and Coffee
  • 1 Professional Sherpa with his equipment allowance, daily wages and carrying bonus
  • Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook and Kitchen helpers
  • Necessary Porters to the Base Camp and their return from the Base Camp
  • Maximum 45kg per Member as a personal baggage
  • High Altitude, Medical & Helicopter rescue insurance for involved Nepalese staffs
  • Each Member will be provided an individual Tent, Mattress and Pillow at Base Camp
  • Satellite phone available for emergency communication (chargeable as per use)
  • Walkie-talkie per Member and climbing staff as required
  • Availability of the daily weather forecast during the entire expedition
  • Medical Kit provides by Climbing Sherpa in case of emergency
  • Garbage management and disposal fee.
  • Farewell dinner with expedition staff in a Nepali typical restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu
  • Makalu summit certificate after the successful summit of the peak

  1. International flight tickets
  2. Nepal Entry Visa fee (To be applied for 90 days)
  3. Drone & Special filming permit
  4. Bank/wire transfer fees (if applicable)
  5. Lunch & Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
  6. Personal Travel, Medical, and Emergency Rescue Insurances.
  7. Personal Trekking and Climbing Gears
  8. Phone calls, internet, battery recharge, laundry, alcoholic beverages, bottled and canned beverages, specialty coffee or espresso drinks, etc.
  9. Summit Bonus for Climbing Sherpa US $ 1500.00..
  10. Tips for Cook and Kitchen helpers
  11. Any other service cost which are not included in the Cost Includes.

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